Surfing is something I've adopted in this life as a source of renewal and a barometer of perseverance. I've lived close enough to the Pacific that I could hear the breaking waves through my open windows and smell kelp on the water. I've driven 16 hours just to camp and surf. I've crossed international borders to explore new surf spots and I've been skunked every which way from Tuesday, too.
Over the last 20-odd years I've continually returned to the ocean for peace and directional energy. Grounding, contemplation and assessment. Years ago it was a daily habit. Then it became occasional. Now, I’m lucky if it’s 5 times per year. All of which have been dependent upon where I've lived. If the ocean was within striking distance (< 1-2 hours), I'd be in the water weekly or more. But now, I live 4 hours away, so my sessions are planned according to wind, tide, swell and most importantly, parental responsibilities.
Paddling out nowadays is a reminder to me that a) I don't surf nearly as much as I should, and b) I am still capable of physically willing myself into the lineup. It's also a perfect metaphor for perseverance.
Sometimes you're pushed backwards. Sometimes you're rolled. Other times it feels like you aren't making any progress at all, just paddling in place. But when you stay with it, you'll eventually move forward. You'll dive under that final wave, popping your head out of the water and opening your eyes to see diamonds falling all around you in the offshore breeze. This feeling is incredible. You're home free. Enjoy the moment and move into position....until the next set rolls in.
To scratch the itch in between my returns to the Pacific, I spend a bit of time watching surf movies. I'm the same age as the Momentum Generation and always enjoyed early morning wake-ups to the hyped music, the amped videos and of course the laughter. Living in the PNW, I'm now oriented a little more towards the cold water experience with mountain backdrops and deep forests punctuating rocky coastlines. Perhaps a bit introspective and serious.
What I love about these films is the element of exploration and commitment required to surf new breaks. Cold water breaks aren't easily accessible and typically involve planning, logistics, forecasting and several strokes of luck to catch good conditions after you've committed hours and sometimes days to reach the unknown. I respect and admire those souls who are committed to the search. It exposes your desire to truly slip into the medium.
So, here are a handful of surf movies you should watch. Seriously. Enjoy.
